I cranked my t-bars up to fit my 32" Super Swamper TSLs and am planning on buying the nissan motorsports t-bars, rear shackles, and t-bar anchors from SLR, but i've been thinking, if i lowered my t-bars back down and just added a $180 body lift i could reduce the expenses of replacing the t-bars and buying the anchors and shackles. i know this won't give me any more ground clearance, but i could then run my swampers without placing undue stress on the t-bars. any thoughts?

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The torsion bar route would be a much less intrusive setup, not to mention avoid the problems usually associate with body lifts. Not only that, but if you ever decide to get a suspension lift, the suspension mods will come in handy.

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:wq!
wqbang@southeastxterraclub.org

I dunno, I was kind of thinking along the same lines for the body lift. A 2" body lift from spencer shouldn't cause many problems I wouldn't think. And when I can afford the suspension lift, it will come with the new t-bars, shackles, etc. So why get them now? If there are problems inherent with a 2 or 3" body lift, what would they be? I think both slr's and 4x4 part's kits are pretty complete and relocate everything from the shifters to the gas hose. Maybe I'm mistaken?


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Sgt_Lobo
2000 4X4, SE, White http://www.cableone.net/sgtlobo/xterra.htm

[This message has been edited by Sgt_Lobo (edited February 05, 2001).]

Body lifts have a great potential to violate alot of your warranty. In the event of a collision a vehicle equiped with a body lift will not act like a stock vehicle would.



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:wq!
wqbang@southeastxterraclub.org

shouldn't need to replace teh t-bars for a while. even if you have an ARB and winch they should last a while. stick with what you have, and when you notice the sag in the t-bars then get them. you should only need them if you get the ARB and/or winch.

kirk




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Synchro (aka Kirk)
2000 Xterra SE, Alpine Green, 4x4, ARB, 32" BFG MTs

i've thought about just waiting until i have the cash and going for the SLR stage I suspension lift.(figure after i buy the t-bars, anchors, and shackles the stage I lift won't be that much more)however, i was recently informed that this might cause a problems when i go to install skid plates. anybody know if its possible to intall the SLR suspension lift and skid plates? thanks

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you cannot install the skid row plates and the SLR lift. the SLR lift drops the front differential by a few inches and the plates bolt right to the frame. so there is no room. I hope someone else comes out with a lift kit that doesn't drop the diff, as i already have the skid plates and will not be relinquishing them any time soon.

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Synchro (aka Kirk)
2000 Xterra SE, Alpine Green, 4x4, ARB, 32" BFG MTs

On the subject of lifts, has FSRBiker relinquished the identity of the new suspension lift?

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On the subject of lifts, I'm puzzled about doing a torsion lift to increase tire clearance. Cranking the torsion bars will change the "unloaded" ride height, but it doesn't change where the suspension bottoms out. So I understand how it can help if you are never in a situation of using the full articulation of the front end, but if you do, you're still going to bottom the suspension at exactly the same place you would without cranking the torsion bars. Am I confused or am I making sense?

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Eric Konarske
'01 Solar Yellow XE 3 Pk. 4x4

I'd like to know the answer to that one too Eric. It would seem that it a torsion lift would do nothing under full compression. But people say that aren't rubbing with an inch or so lift and a little trimming. Seems odd to me. Anyone have any insight?

Lifting the front by adjusting the torsion bars does not stop rubbing problems under suspension compression. If it rubbed before adjusting them, it will rub after lifting.

What it does do is alleviate some rubbing during normal driving conditions.

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Regards,
Ian