Plan on putting new shocks on this weekend. Was wondering what size the bolts are on the top and bottom of the shock? Is it the same for all 4? Also, what other tools will I need to help assist this process and make it go smoothly? Do I have to jack up the whole car or can I jack up one wheel at a time?

For the bolts, just reuse the ones That are in there. You'll have a heck of a time finding the bolts for the lower front shock anyway, but the old bolts should work just fine. The front shocks should come with all the top hardware. On the rear there are studs at the bottom, anyway.

For the rear end, you don't need to jack it up at all, just take off the old and put on the new. For the front, just jack up one side at a time so you can remove the tire and install the shock.

rear sway removal made life MUCH easier
check threads of rear lower bolts, they can get ruined and make things interesting, try to clean them up
can't remember bolt sizes though

The rear studs are 5/8".

I assume I need to remove the spare also correct? Is there any way to remove the spare without a tire jack and rod? I don't have one and I was trying to pick one up from someone off here but no luck.

In addition to a decent set of box wrenches, sockets, etc. I would also suggest that you have Vise-Grip pliers available to hold the top of the stud of the front shocks while you get the bolt loose. I agree, you don't need to jack up the rear but removing the rear anti-sway bar will be a huge help. If memory serves me correct, you pretty much have to leave it off if you are putting on Bilsteins. Sorry, I can't remember the bolt sizes right now.
Hope this helps

Barry

when i installed me shocks, i used sockets and a sawzall on the front. i fubar'd the top all up on the DS front and gave up after a few hours and cut the sumbitch right off. did the same on the PS with out even trying to un bolt it. backs were real easy, just make sure you spray everything down good and let it soak in before working on it. makes everything much easier.

Ok I installed 3 of the 4 shocks I bought (Monroe Reflex) but I can't get the stupid sway bar off! Do I unscrew the bolts that are on the frame or do I take of the vertical links that go up towards the top of the shocks? How many are on each side (bolts)?

it's been a long time since i took my sway bar off, but you could probably remove either the sway bar from the links or just take the whole thing with the links off. i unbolted mine from the links and then just tied the links up to the frame with twine because i was in a rush. i still haven't gotten around to taking off the links and every once in a while someone will ask what the twine is holding up and they get a little nervous getting in

To remove the rear sway bar...there's two links attached to the underside of the frame, and two brackets holding it to the rear axle.

Each axle bracket has two screws...one screw gets removed, the other merely gets loosened, as the bracket is slotted, and will come off easily at that point.

Just disconnect the two top points at the frame...and the two brackets at the axle, and leave all the rest in the middle intact, and the entire bar and linkage assembly can be removed in one gangly piece.


The rear sway bar, running across the rear diff, and with end links on either side, and, the two brackets on the axle.


Overview of rear sway bar linkage, drivers side...shows D Side bracket with two screws, and upper link, and attachment point to frame.


Close-up View UP at the upper sway link to unbolt....just take that nut off, and tap the bolt back, and the link comes right off.

I have searched and searched and cant find this in the 300 or so threads (although it is too much to go through).

I understand that even stock shocks may come into contact with the rear swaybar, especially on the right side due to the poor design from the factory.

If you order the Bilstein 5100's listed on the SLR website as " for use with swaybar", is the clearance the same as the stock ones, or less? I plan on keeping my swaybar on but would still like to throw on some Bils.

Hey thanks guys for all the great tips. Awesome pics TJ! I will attempt to take this off again later today and I'll give an update. I was removing the lower axle bracket bolts. I'll try just the top on each and then the top of the links.

Another question: my new front shocks came with new metal washers and new rubber stops. I used the new rubber stops on the top (if I used both new rubber stops, then I couldn't put the nut on the top) and kept the old metal washers since they were different shaped. Is this cool? The old rubber looked kind of worn out.

Ryando: I see no way that shocks would come into contact with the sway bar unless the diameter of the shock was HUGE. If the Bilsteins you are going to get are not OEM replacements, then what you said may be the case. But my Monroe Reflexes are perfect fits.

A little FYI, for all those needing new shocks right now, Advance Auto has 25% off all Monroe's right now (and a few others). I got all 4 for $150! Good deal IMO.

Notice the Rear Passenger side shock is not much larger than OEM, and, on P side droop, the sway bar link hits the shock...hard.

People have BROKEN the P side shock leaving the sway on...its that bad. The swaybars have also slammed other stuff after denting up, or breaking your shock.

I can't get the top bolt off the bracket that is on the axle! I also think it's beginning to strip! What can I do? Can I just take off the linkages on both sides and swing the sway bar down out of the way? Or is it really in there tight with those 2 bolts on the axle bracket?

It's probably rust welded on. Soak it with PB Blaster.

Only ONE screw comes out...the other hole is slotted, just loosen the screw, and the bracket can slide out from under it.

Which screw? The top or the bottom one on the axle? Also, undo both linkage screws (2 on each side, 4 total)?

Getting old sucks...

I forget which...but, you have one out, right?

Is the place where THAT screw went, through a slotted hole in the bracket, or through a regular hole?

If the one that you DID remove is slotted, you didn't have to remove the screw.

If the one that you DID remove is NOT slotted, you only have to loosen the remaining screw (In the slotted hole remaining...)enough to slide out.

If its rust welded in there, just yank it out with extreme prejudice...as it will never be of any use again anyway.

Once the brackets are off, put anti-seize on the screws and put them back in, and or pack the holes with Por 15, or grease, etc., to prevent rust.

To clarify - The two brackets each have 2 screws, 4 screws total holding the sway bar brackets to the axle.

At the ends of the upper links, there's a nut holding the joint to the frame tab...one nut per side, for a total of 2 nuts.

That's all you need to take off.

The bottom one has a welded nut on the back of the bracket... That is all I know. I took out the bottom one and it seems the bracket was dropping down. I had to jack up the bracket just to put the screw back in because I didn't want to "F" things up.

EDIT: Ok the top one looks like a "U" with a place for the nut to pass through. The bottom one is like an "O", which won't let the screw slip through it. I assume take out the bottom one and loosen the top? Keep posting as my laptop is in the garage and I have wireless so I'll refresh quite a bit.

Right...the one with the slot "U" or "V" or whatever, slides out...the one with the "0" the screw has to come out.

Take out the "0"'s...slide out the "U"'s.