I am putting in new shocks this weekend, if it does not rain. I did a search and found the wrench and socket sizes needed to do the job. I just have a quick question if anyone could help me out. Do you need to lift the wheel up on the side that you are working on? I read that you don't have to take the wheel off. If someone could help me out I would apprciate it. Anything to make the job go easier would be helpful.

Thanks Kevin

Rears are a simple install from under the truck. Fronts could be done bu a small person I suppose, but it will be much easier if you jack up the front and remove the wheel. At least jack it up so you have a bit more room behind the wheel. If you're installing Bilstiens I would definatly get the wheel out of the way because the front B's are very hard to work with due to their extremely high pressure. You kinda have to compress them on the ground and then quickly insert them into position before they expand. Hard to do that quickly when stuff is in the way!

Similar experience with Bilsteins. The rears were easy, just had to unbolt the passenger swaybar link to get that side on. No jacking needed. Tried to do the fronts for over an hour without jacking, and finally gave up and removed the wheels and they went on in 10 minutes.

Spray all the stuff you need to turn with penetrating oil now, so it has time to work.

Thank you very much for the info. Can I pick up penetrating oil from the auto parts store or from a hardware store?

penetrating oil can be WD40...you can buy that about anywhere.

I like PB Blaster (Nut Blaster) way more than wd40....but either are available anywhere.

I will pick some up tomm. and get those parts ready to be removed. I found that I need a 16mm, 17mm and a 16mm socket to remove and install the shocks. Is there anything else that I should have on hand when putting them in.

That sounds about right, I put new shocks on the previous xterra I had, it was very easy. Start to finish in about an hour. The hardest part was breaking loose the lug nuts since they were put on with an impact gun.

Most of the shocks come compressed, with a band or strap on them.

My routine...I take them out, and measure the compressed and extended eye to eye lengths, compute the travel, write it down...

Then, I put the strap/band back on to hold them compressed...and I install them that way...and after bolting them in, I remove the band and let them free.

It easier than trying to squeeze and bolt before they extend again.



Taking the tires off helps access.

Use jack stands once jacked, chock the truck to prevent movement.

A jack can be used to raise/lower the axle ends once the rest of the truck is supported.

Its also a good time to inspect the trucks guts....look at the lines and plumbing, what goes where, look for rub/contact marks, kinks, dents, corrosion, etc.

For example, back when I did mine, I noticed a dent in the p-side shock...after looking at it, it became obvious that the thing that dented it would likely be my sway bar when that side was drooped..and convinced me that the bar needed to come off for even light wheeling, not so much for performance, but to avoid damage as well.

I also noticed that salt was eating my exhaust system....and that I would need a new one in a few years....etc.

I also took before/after pics of the truck's undercarriage...it helps to remember what's under there/have a pic to post when there's a question.

If your front shocks are like mine on a 2000, you will need wrenches instead of sockets because the top tower mounts are threaded studs that are too long to get a socket over. Wrenches with a ratcheting box end would be a help. This may not be the case on an 03 though.

Thank you guys very much for all the info. All of this will be very helpful. Sonds like I could have them in and still have the rest of my Saturday to do whatever. Thanks for all the input.

Well I just got my shocks delivered by FedEx. Going to put them in this weekend. Thank you all for your help .

Well I got the rears in with no problem. The fronts are another story. I got the top nuts off. The problem is the bottom bolt. It is a 17mm bolt I found out. I snaped my drive trying to take it off. I don't know if there is an easier way to get it off. There is not alot of room in there to use a wrench. So I guess I will have to go and get a stronger drive and myabe and extension.

Hmmm, try wacking it with a hammer, not too hard but enough to get some vibration going on. That or go get a breaker bar and a sturdy pipe to put some leverage on that puppy!

FYI...WD-40 isn't a penetrating oil. It's a lubricanting oil.

Like TJ said, PB Blaster.

Hopfully he has this taken care of by now since the last post was 10/31/05. :p

hmm, good point

WD40 does penetrate, so it can be called a penetrating oil. It's also a lube though, so it doesn't penetrate as well as a true penetrating oil. I work on john deere and toro equipment all the time and the best stuff for freeing bolts is a product called Yield made by chemsearch. The stuff wicks so well it's unbelievable

I believe how well it wicks...so its not unbelievable.

Ok, back to the shock installation. I've done this before, so I know how to do it, but I have a problem.

I put on one new front shock, no problem. Done in 15 minutes. However, on the drivers side, the lower bolt seems to be sieze to the shock bushing and it is pulling apart the lower shock mounts as I unbolt it. I have soaked it with PB blaster, tried to tap it loose with a screwdriver, clamped the mounts together, and still the bushing remains attached to the bolt so I can't get it out.

Any suggestions?

Just ditch it and drive the other one.

TJ, you're such help sometimes.

I ended up cutting out bolt. What a PITA. The good thing is, yes, I took the other X to the Nissan dealer and the gave me another bolt. Done.

Friggin bushing was welded to the bolt, and I put it on with NeverSieze. All that water and mud took its toll.

Scott - you had changed out the OEM's for the Calmini shocks...and now you were putting on another set? Or is this the other X?

?

Yeah. I had finally taken the X to the garage and had them loosen them up with the impact gun. I had a breaker bar and everything. Whatever I tried those bolts would not come loose. I was afraid that if I pulled too hard I would knock the truck off the jack. So for $10 I had them loosen up the bolts then after that it was about 20 minutes and both front shocks were on and tightend up. Thanks for all the help with this.

I replaced the shot Calmini's with Bilstiens. My front has been doing a lot of bobing lately.