Yep -same symptom as before...

The problem is the sleeve - the top portion (which remains unmilled to fill the gap between the bearing and idler arm brace) is where the wear occured. So the idler arm slides up and down the bolt. If anything, it was worse than before.

Before you buy the Calmini SS -

I've now been waiting since Oct 2005 for a warrentied replacement idler arm or refund without receiving anything...

I just rebuilt my whole front end which included removing the Calmini steering. Granted mine did hold out to about roughly 55k, it's nice not to hear the "death rattle" anymore.

If you do the bearing fix, the inner portion of the bearing, and the arm brace MUST make a solid stack without the inner sleeve contacting the arm brace (the inner sleeve should have only the presure of the 2 bearings pusing against it NONE from the arm brace.) You need to turn the sleeve and mill the arm to fairly tight tolerances so that the inner and outer bearing surfaces are seated firmly at the same time. This allows you to torque the bolt very tight (as in 200 ft/lbs) and the arm will still move freely.

I have done a few of these and redone one which was done fairly well but without attention to a couple crutial measurements. If done properly the spherical bearing fix should last for a long long time. If done improperly it will be no better than a faulty bronze bushing.

That isn't what Axle posted when he posted this diagram on page 9...
With mine, if I had the sleeve milled down completely to fit inside the bearins, there would be a space between the brace and idle arm - which was there in the original part but occupied by the outer flanges of the bronze bushing. So to do what I think you are describing, I'd either have to bend my Idler arm brace, or I'd have to have a new IAB made by someone.

If you have ever set up skateboard wheels you know that a small spacer is required between the bearings. This allows you to tighten the axle bolt without binding up the bearings. The Wheel also has a surface which the bearing bodies tighten against.

When I have done this mod I measure the opening in the IA brace and calculate how deep to machine the arm so that once installed, the bearings match that measurement. I then turn the inner sleeve with a step on each side deep enough that the bearings slide in and the sleeve is recessed about 0.01" on each end. Without seeing yours I cant say what would be required to make it work. I will try to post a little drawing of how I have machined the ones I made.

I have a degree as a Tool Maker and have designed progressive dies, multi-cavity injection molds and have programmed CNC mills and lathes for the last 8 years. There is always a way to get from what you have to what you want!

This is how I machine the spherical bearing mod.


Purple is the arm
Blue is the bearing race/body
Red is the bearing
Black is the inner sleeve
Green is the I.A.Brace

You should be able to see how you can tighten this as much as you like and the arm and bearing race will turn freely while the brace, sleeve, and bearing will be completely solid mounted to your frame. You can also see the only place where any slop can be a factor is from the bearing/race fit. These bearings are rated at 35k lbs each and should wear for the life of your truck if kept lubricated.

I would like to note that the fit between the bearing and the race does give a small amount of wiggle in this application.

That is a problem in states (like mine) where to pass inspection the steering can not have any play in it.

If the steering components move when you try to wiggle the tire, you fail inspection.