I figured it was a metallurgical difference too
So, after two years of offroading ( ) on my SS, you think I should throw in the new bushings before replacing the TREs? I'd like to go one step at a time to help narrow down the possibilities. If it's not the TREs, in go the bushings, and if not the IAB bushings , I'm thinking hub assembly replacement

I'm always torn between wanting to do everything once the rig is up and the tools are out...and wanting to methodically eliminate one variable at a time...

:rolleyes:

It comes down to this:

If the goal is to be done w/it...and you don't care about diagnostics, just do everything.

If you really don't want to prematurely replace anything/scientific curiosity is nagging...do one at a time.

If you are going to do one at a time, do the one that you KNOW needs it first, and progress down the list towards the long shots at the end....

This can be proportionally adjusted to each items PITA and cost factors.



You can of course individually diagnose some of these things...the TRE's will allow play at the TRE...jack it up, wiggle the wheel, etc...see where the play is....the steering, same, have someone steer while you look at the play at the bushings, etc...This type of thing can save a lot of time over replacement and then seeing, etc.

Thanks Dan.

You can tell if it is the TRE or idler arm bushings just by lifting one tire of the ground and wiggling it to see what moves. I have gone through 3 sets of bushings. Just this last time I replaced both tierod assemblies after noticing my passenger side was bad on on end. But now, about 6 months later with only 2 offroad xcursions(2 days total of mild offroading), the 3rd set is bad....time to call Calmini for the 4th set.

They really should use a couple of spherical bearings in the idler arm.. It would be pretty much indestructible and would be much easier to maintain.

Cost-wise, it would run about $50 more for parts though.

John, can you make one? I'll go gnea pig for a while ...

Just a quick question. I am replacing my bushings this weekend and was wondering if anyone knows what torque I should use to tighten the nut.
I called Calmini and everyone is at Moab. Thanks

I asked Dave at calmini the same question and he said if you over tighten it the arm will bind and the bushings will wear even faster. I asked for a torque swtting and he said "make it tight, but not too tight".Maybe he shoulda just said "nobody here knows".

I'm getting my steering from Calmini in a week.
I am thinking about using 2 Y-bearing plummer blocks, by SKF, for the Idler arm connections.

If I make something I'll post pics, etc...

I would say to tighten it until there's no play...it has to be able to rotate, but if also allowed to move in other planes (Too much play), it will wear proportionally...so, just like he said...tight, but not too tight.



No one knows what the magic torque number is though....probably depends on the wear and tear to that point.

Yo Matt(KCX), do you have the ability to post a photograph of one of the three sets of worn bushings you've replaced?

MY Calmini Steering is less than 3 months. bushings are shot and Calmini told me that they dont even have bushing to replace them. Also told me to send in the idler arm assembly and they would inspect it,This Option would leave me without my daily driver for at least a week or more depending on how busy they are. Fasinating thing this Dave told me was that the original 30 Calmini Steering kits are still on the road and they they have experienced no problems at all with the Idler arm bushing. Hmmmmm I must have just gotten a bad one, When I mentioned other on the XOC have experienced similar problems I was told by this Dave that people will post anything on the XOC for other to believe.
AMAZING, where did customer service go...
Now I must find a fix for this. I can not afford to be buying right front tires because of this slop.
Other than an SAS anyone try to modify a sperical bearing assembly into the steering kit.
If so many people have problems with this Idler arm why hasnt Calmini recalled the part for safety reasons and fixed this.

Today I talked with a material engineer here at work, showed him the clamini bushings, explained him the job they do and some videos to make clear what we need in a bushing for our CSS.

After that, he said we can try NYLAMID. That is the trademark for a material made of some polimers like nylon, acetal and polietilen. Also, it comes with self lubricated options, it is loaded with bisulfur of molybdenum. It is machined with the same equipment to machine bronze pieces. It is used in some bushings and high stressed components of our heavy machines (Germany made) here in our plant.

Nylamid ( only english search ) seems to be the mexican brand of the material, because I couldnt find good english info about it. Should be a equivalent USA brand for this material.

Well, what I could find about Nylamid is this:

Some of the caracteristics of Nylamid:

Dimenisonal stability
Malleability
Wear resistance
dielectric resistance
mechanic resistance
chemical resistance
Thermic resistance
Rigidity

Nylamid SL (super lubricated) specs:

Density 1.16 gr./cm3
hardness (Shore-D) 85
Tension resistance 878 kg./cm2
Compression resistance 1,124 kg./cm2
flexion resistance 1,195 kg./cm2
Impact resistance 2.72 kg./cm2

Maybe someone with the proper knowledge can take a look at this specs and bring more light regarding the possible use of this material in our bushings.

The webpage (spanish) of this material is: http://www.nylamid.com.mx/

Specs of the Nylamid SL:
http://www.nylamid.com.mx/prop_nylamid_SL.htm

Specs of the Nylamid XL (eXtra lubrication):
http://www.nylamid.com.mx/prop_nylamid_XL.htm

Taking my X into my mechanic tomorrow to inspect the faulty Calmini steering. I suspect that my issue is the bushings as well. I have noted mixed responses by them. Anyone have last minute suggestions on how to solve this problem? Anyone know of another aftermarket bushing that will fit the Calmini steering system? Is it true that XterraXcurrions is out? I could not find them as noted by TJ on thier site.

Thanks in advance.

You have to call them...they don't list them on their site because they are still experimental...no one has had enough time on them to prove that they are any better than Calmini's.

They are made of higher quality materials, and it is hoped they work better...but, there's no definitive proof as of yet....I have them, in my garage....but the Calmini one's are still OK.

Well I'll be damned. I called Calmini and told them that my bushings were worn out. I also explained to them that these are the 3rd set I've worn through.

One of the folks there told me I was the only one who had gone through so many...

I have done everything suggested, and they still wear out in about 3 months, even quicker if you wheel alot. Greasing may help to slow this process down, but it's no fix.

I'm tired of calling these guys and getting attitude from them because their parts wear out too fast. There isn't alot of play as of yet, but once it starts it goes quick. My guy who does the alignment on my truck says he won't touch it until the bushings have been replaced.

I also told the guys at Calmini that I build high-speed molding equipment and I was interested in helping them to find a permanent solution. The guy told me "well, I'm not an engineer dude, so you are talking to the wrong guy." Then he babbled a bit about his drumset and told me to put my recommendations in an e-mail. Yeah right.

If Calmini doesn't come up with a solution for this, seems to me that there would be grounds for class-action against them. They better pray that there isn't a failure that causes someone to wreck their truck. The design is safe enough, but the weak link to me would be the bolt. Hopefully there isn't enough stresses on the bolt to cause it to break. (it's highly unlikely, but I've seen several things fail that were built not to)

Calmini did say they would put me on the list to get a new set. But at this point, I'm looking to find some other, better made bushing kits. Besides, I need to replace these worn ones sooner than 3 months. (they say that's how long it could take to get the new ones)

How disappointing.

They now have a list! of people who need replacements? I'd use some of the info from people around here that know something about metal, and try to find some locally.

Aqua, you are not the only one who has gone through 3 sets. I'm on my third set also.
When I called last time they had an attitude over the phone. I was a tad pissed. I do still have faith in Calimini but they could go further without attacking someone over the phone.
I still plan on their SAS kit.

What ever happend to that Miracle cure for the bushings??

It has been several months since the ones that were talking about that have said anything.

Well?? Anyone? Anyone? Beuller?

What happend to the miracle cure all for the bushings?

The guys in Canada had the bushings made.

And??

And they are installed and being tested to see if they last longer.

I deal with CALMINI by email. I always have very attentive, kind and quick communication, doing what they promised. So no complains in this regard.

I'm tellin you guys.. Do something about the problem rather than complaining. Its not that hard of a fix.

Take the idler to any competent machine shop and have them mill the inner radius out 1/16" to a depth of 3/4" (or deeper.. mill as needed to allow a nice fit into the Calmini idler arm mount) top and bottom to fit two spherical bearings.

Have them cut down the original sleeve to fit between the two bearings so there will be no static side loading on the spherical joints once its all tightened up. Reinstall, Torque the bolt down. Grease it up and go wheeling..

Here is the part you will need.. order two of these and take them with the arm to the machine shop.

McMaster-Carr Extended life ball joint bearing. #2699K13 .. $23.07

through hole I.D.: 1"
Outer Diameter: 1 5/8"
spherical bearing width: 7/8"
casing width: 3/4"
Spherical bearing swivel: 14°
Static Radial load capacity (lbs): 37,700

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Any machine shop will do this for you for less than $100. If you have a friend with a good metalworking lathe, you could have it done for a case of beer.

The Calmini arms are made from billet 4140 heat treated steel alloy. This material will have NO problem handling the use of these bearings. My steering was constructed from heat treated 4130 and had the bearings closer together (ie: more radial load and impacts exerted on them) and it was just fine.

BTW, I ran smaller 25,000lb rated spherical bearings on my custom centerlink setup for over a year with no issues.. I sold it when I SAS'd and its still being used today on another truck, after 3 years of hard abuse, on the original bearings with *zero* slop. And it didnt even have grease zerks to lube the bearings.

I like your idea datz510. Do you have pics?

BTW, I have measured an original/new Calmini set of bushings & sleeve, and measured the set I removed last weekend from my truck showing play: it lost .001" in the sleeve and .001" in the bushings.