CALMINI CRAWLER GEARS ON SALE TODAY!!

Get ready for GONE the right way, with crawler gears..

Not for the low price of $1200!!

Not even the insane price of $1100!!

Steve still has his lease, but now everything must go!!

$995.00!!

(Mine are on the way )

Those gears are the most under-rated upgrade for off-roading in the Xterra. Especially if you have a manual transmission.

Are they still throwing in the SYE?

no, not for $995...

HOLY SHIT!

Hey uhh, can I borrow $995.00, from anybody. I dont care just give me the money, please.

The gears WILL BE MY NEXT MOD!!!

When can you pay me back?

The Moab special is $1,295, which included the SYE, which by itself is $ 219...so eesentially $ 1,076 for the gears, just $81 more than this special which doesn't include the SYE.

eh

Then again, w/o the GONE or MOAB specials, its $1,295 for JUST the gears...

As this was my next planned mod....you are making me insane you bass turd.

Are you Serious? Set up a payment plan.

You better not be teasin me.

No payment plans , but if you can swing it by GONE.. NO ifs, ands, or buts.

Dan, you have mail.

Would you suggest a new clutch at the same time? ~67k miles.

Only if your clutch need to be changed/upgraded...

Its not like they go together and you'd save a ton of $ like when you do diff gears when you do a locker, etc.

For manuals, the lower gears would extend your clutch life, as you wouldn't have to let it slip as much off road, etc.

this might be a stupid question to some, but what exactly does this gear reduction improve and why?

Well, I can't tell if you have a manual or an automatic tranny...but think of it this way...

If you ever had a 10 speed bike for example, you know how you would shift to a lower gear to get up a steep hill, and you would be pedalling really fast but going really slow?

Well, that's one thing making the low gears lower does for you....for the same engine rpm, you are going much slower...and in rocks, etc...the slower you can go w/o stalling, the better....it gives you more control.

If you have a manual, and you are trying to go slowly through an obstacle, etc...you need too slip the clutch sometimes to acheive enough rpm to get required torque, but keep the actual truck speed at a safe pace...so the lower gearing allows you to save your clutch.

If you are descending a steep hill, etc...and you don't want to brake, as that tends to slip sideways, etc....you just leave it in gear, and ride it down...which is sometimes too fast...lower gears help you to maintain a slower descent speed.

What they do is replace the low range gears in the T-Case....so they are only in use in 4WD Lo....the rest of the time, the truck is as it was before.

So, lower gearing helps you to maintain power at slow speeds, improving control, maintain slow speeds on descent, and save your clutch.

So can anyone buy the gears for $995 today? Theres nothing on there website about this $995 price.

I do not want a SYE, just gears.

Thanks,

I bought my gears for the Moab special with the free SYE, but opted to go without the Slip yoke, so it ended up being $1295.
WELL WORTH EVERY PENNY!!
I upgrade the clutch at the same time since you have to remove the crossmembers, and suspension anyway. I got a great deal on labor too.

For the 5 speed owners.. You can start in 3rd gear in 4 low without even touching the gas pedal.. First gear will pull houses off their foundation. INSANE POWER!!
Which is why I'm going up to 35's tires soon
My 33's have been spinning a bit while wheeling..

$995 is amazing price! Same as the other crawler gears they offer..
If you own a 5 speed tranny, YOU NEED THESE GEARS!!

Thanks Guys. I ordered mine today! I have not bought anything from them since 93. I feel better now.

Hello All. We are currently updating our Nissan site to reflect the 2006 Moab Special. DBAX is correct. The sale is $995.00 for gears plus shipping and the sale will go through April 30th. Don't forget to request a CALMINI T-shirt!

What does the slip yoke eliminator do for us?

Our SYE serves three basic functions

1. Allows for a CV-style, two piece driveshaft for long travel applications where the stock slip-yoke would fail. This style of driveshaft will allow for more slip in the middle where it is needed than the stock slip-yoke can provide at the t-case side.
2. If the stock slip-yoke fails on the trail the oil will all leak out of the transfer case leaving you without an easy fix. Our SYE completely seals the rear output of the t-case ensuring that it will not be an issue.
3. Our SYE allows for a larger than stock 1310 or 1330 u-joint to be used making the entire unit stronger than the factory slip-yoke and driveshaft.

Cool.

Man - I didn't want to spend any more money... but I may have to go ahead with these gears.

With gears plus dual lockers I'll be freakin' unstoppable - even with my stinky IFS

Jealous. Jealous over here big time.

I need to find me a sugar mama stat.

You had to remove the cross member to add the gears?

My shop took the transmission and t-case down as an assembly, so the crossmembers came out as well.
I might be wrong but isnt the Torsion bar crossmember directly under the Transfer case?

I don't think so. The rear crossmember where the adjuster bolts are is pretty far back.

I did not know about the T shirt.

Oh damn a T-Shirt.... what is everyone waiting for???? ORDER NOW!!!

When I last looked (Longingly...) at Calmini's T-Case gear install instructions...I didn't see anything about the cross member...or, come to think of it, any thing except a t-case on a bench already....

:rolleyes:

It kind of looked like it would fit out ok though...I thought I could just unbolt the sucker and work on it in the garage, etc?

Installation has taken a couple of hours (3-4 hours or so), and for those with the patience, the t-case can come out without taking the transmission out. A bit messy, with a manual transmission, but still, not that bad.

Well, there you have it, certified back up...the cross member stays.

There you go. Easy installation with a great price tag.
My shop must have pulled everything down because I had the clutch installed at the same time.

And a quick tip for anyone installing these..

Clean the underside of your truck thoroughly before attempting installation..
My poor shop had about a 6 foot x 6 foot area of mud from the underside of my truck.. OOPS..

Yep, when you unbolt it, it will actually move back about 1/2", then pivot on the input shaft. It takes some muscle, but she pops out OK.

One of those "Hold yer tongue just right and then...".

Oh, and I don't know what your shop charged you, but I'm charging $250 to put the gears in, with the SYE as well. That's taking it out of the vehicle, putting in the gears and then reinstalling it with the SYE. New fluid in the t-case, and if it's a manual transmission, new fluid for the tranny as well.

Gotta love side jobs!

My shop definitely hooked me up if the install cost for just the gears is around $250.
They charged me a great price for the installation of my centerforce DF clutch, pilot bushing, resurfaced flywheel, throwout bearing, T-case gear installation, and synth. fluids.
And did my rear locker install for free.
Now I just need to get the front locker installed.

I never got my sticker for the Gears..
I think I'll give Calmini a call tonight.

I was going to get these, but I just had to spend $1400 on my ZX2. Darn I'm pissed, that money was to be for the X not the ZX.

$250 for t-case gear install...

Local shop wanted to charge me $650

My question is this:

I have an 03 auto with SAS and front/rear ARB's. I know the gears are noticed more in a manual tranny... So would it be worth it?

So worth it that it is not even funny.

Well that was easy...
I will order them next week

Carlton - I think you need to change your sig for a little bit...

T-case gears.. It is what your Xterra wants for Valentines Day.

Hi guys. I have a question. will these gears fit my 06?

no, sorry sweetie.

How long will the gears be available at $995?

I have a few drunks to roll and pay phone change slots to check yet....

Not my call, but I'd guess up until GONE..

where are these specials posted up? i never even knew calmini did this?

what are the thoughts about doing this w/ an automatic? i've heard good and bad things. i really could have used the lower range in Moab - trails like Fins n Things.
Can't do the install, thank god for Allen; he's about to get a lot of business. i could do it now w/ install for about the price it was before.

I plan on doing it at some point, especially with my automatic. It's much easier on the transmission (and the autos are really expensive to replace!).

You've taken out the case without removing the torsion bar crossmember? I've done a couple of them and dropped the Xmember both times....Just don't see how you can get the case out with that in the way, especially without a body lift.

OH, and I'm probably the first guy who's bought their second set Have had them in my Fronty since they came out 3 years ago....Now the X is getting them.

Yep, have done them like that a couple of times.

Granted, it's easier when pulling the transmission/t-case as a whole, and you pull the crossmember. But, if you're not doing the entire transmission (like, you're not doing a clutch in an auto!) then you can pull it without pulling the x-member.

I'll try it then. It HAS to be a really tight fit. Beats messing with the torsion bars.

She's tight, but she fits.

Works better with two guys, if you're doing it on your back.

That's what SHE said...

I tried to pull without mesing with tbar crossmember. But it would be very difficult if possible.



Heres my little write up...

gear install

Awesome product!!!

Did you jack up the transmission from it's mount to clear the member? If not, then she's a no go.

I'm saying it's easy, but it's doable.

No it was still bolted in that picture. It was just a test. I am doing 3 more of these this month. Some with tbars some without. So I was just trying to see what it would take. I bet if I unbolted trans mount and raised trans it would clear. But I like the fact with tbar member out tcase comes straight down nice and easy.

Got mine today.

They said there are only a few left, so don't wait if you want them.

figures, wait until the money's gone, and tease me.

:rolleyes:

Hey - on the T-case topic....

I had the clutch replaced by a (Shudder) shop...and they busted the T-case shifter when they dropped the tranny.

They claim it must have already been broken, and that when they dropped the tranny, "the parts fell out, that had been held in when the tranny was still up".

I called BS....they are arguing that they didn't break it....and it was broken when they got it.



I need evidence to back me up when arguing with the lying sacks of shit at the shop...can ANYONE think of a way for my t-case shifter to be broken, yet allow me into and out of 4wd hi/lo etc...with NO symptoms of loosness, etc?

The way it is now, I can swing the t-case shifter in circles, it feels as though the boot is all that's connecting it on. There's none of the spring loaded up/down push action to get low range...just a loose shift lever.

Anyone?

Cyclemut started looking into it already, and he also feels that they are evil lying sacks of shit.

help?

The magicial transfer case ferry! Sounds ridiculous to me.

Make sure the 2 12mm bolts that hold the tcase shifter to the trans are still there. It hinges on the trans (auto or manual) You would have to drop it from at east 10 feet on to concrete to bust that stuff. Also make sure the upper piece is still there.

I bet its just not connected.

Note the shifter on this dual tcase setup. See how it hinges on the trans.
http://www.marks4wd.com

This is the only pic I could find. Its a patrol dual tcase setup.

I have installed 3 sets of crawler gears in the last 10 days. But I have no pic of that shifter.

He took off 2 12 mm bolts, and one 14 mm nut...he says.

:rolleyes:

After the stuff fell on the shop floor, I think he just screwed things back in.

Is it possible to re-connect the shift lever w/o needing a new one?

Correct to remove the shifter on the newer cases theres 2 bolts and 1 nut. Even if you dropped on floor and drove over it you could not damge that shifter. Its solid steel. Just make sure its bolted back on. I guess I dont understand whats broke. Theres no way to install wrong. Its so simple, Its idiot proof.

I dont think the 2 12mm bolts are re installed.

Can you take a pic of the dside of trans?

Actually, look at the pic of the shifters on there. You see the little black rubber boots on the shifter handles? They hold a spring loaded deally (hard to explain) that lets the shifter handles go up and down. If that got messed up by Wonder Tech, then it would be possible to get the symptom that TJ has described.

I'd need to see the internals of the shifter lever to see if everything is still OK. I bet that's where the problem lies.

I'm running back and forth (OK, I'm driving, but in a car I borrowed...) from CT to MD all week, and looks like next week too...so I don't even have time to open the boot and snap a pic or 3, etc.



I think Sat is my next window of opportunity...

Any hints as to specific points of interest from a forensic standpoint I should be sure to picture?

Make sure the 2 12mm (heads) bolts are attached to trans and also the 14mm nut is connecting the tcase linkage to the shifter arm.

I think he put them back on afterwards...I think after he broke it, he tried to cover up the mistake. I was able to shine a light up through the skids at those items, and they are there...its on the inside, what they were holding, that I think he let go.



I'm going to pop the boot, andlook down, ans see what I can see that way.

Well, the tcase starts coming out tonight. Hoping to finish it all this week during evenings. AZ Run is sneaking up quickly, and the wifey wants the low gears to keep up on the trails.

Sounds good!

BTW - My t-case issue was resolved, they admitted their mistake and the tech's cover up, and fixed it...so I at least have 4wd drive again.

Thank God! I was running out of options for junk yards! No one wanted to sell the shifter without the t-case.

What did they finally admit too? Glad you got it resolved.

The owner says he took it apart himself, and it looked to him like the tech took off the 10 mm, the pin fell out, and the rest was history.



He took full responsibility, aplogized, and said the kid was new, and screwed up, and was too afraid to admit it. He said he told him never to lie again, and to just admit screw ups while they are still fixable.

I was satisfied, I have 4wd back.



The Dual Friction unit, despite 90% more clamping power, feels just like the stock unit...not grabby, no extra leg force to work the pedal, engages/disengages smoothly.

The Guy's looking at the Calmini web site now.

Got my case dropped yesteday. Cyclemut, you might say there's a way to get it out without dropping the xmember, but I sure don't see how. I dropped the Tbar xmember for the clearance to get the thing out of there.

Maybe with a body lift.....

I've dropped 3 of these now. This one was by far the worst due to the tightness of the bolts...those top ones were a beotch!

Yep the top bolts sucked! Had a dog leg wrench specificly made to fit up in there but due to the bolts being so tight the wrench flexxed too much to remove the bolts in the limited space. That is why I pulled the center console. Once you know how to pull the console apart I think it saves work in the long run but luckily I haven't had to do 3 installs of this little sucker.

The Xterra I did I had to remove the center console and both crossmmebers. I removed the transcrossmember just for access to the electrical stuff.



The exhaust gets in the way on The Xterra. Not an issue on the D21 V6s. I even removed the dust shield. Still very tight with tbars out.

I was able to get it out without touching anything on the interior, at the expense of some skinned up knuckles. The Tbar xmember came out, and I unbolted the tranny xmember so I could lower it a couple inches for clearance. The exhaust is a nuisance, but it can be maneuvered around that. It'll get an oil change and some fender trimming to clear the brand new MTR's sitting at my house.

The tcase was much easier to get out on my Frontier. Same clearances, but no exhaust crossover (4 banger), and the bolts weren't torqued nearly as tight.

It goes back in tonight.

Think I may have gotten the last set in stock on backorder now.

Dropped my tcase last night…little easier for me because I have the SAS and less in the way. Took around 2 hrs with air tools, used an air nibbler for the top bolts and they came right out.

Think I’m going to replace the seal that goes between the tranny and tcase and not take a chance and start in on the case/gears on the weekend.

Thought you already had gears in your X?