If anybody can help me with this, I would appreciate it.

I'm going to look at a Dana 44 today. Supposedly complete (hub-to-hub) with 4.88s, ARB and high steering. Out of an 85-86 waggy with no VD .

If I buy this axle, what else will I need besides the Calmini kit and a cutting torch?

Also, I have a pretty beefy AAL (supposedly 3" lift) laying in my garage and already have the Calmini shackle installed. Will this be enough to match the front, or should I be looking at custom leaf packs? Actually, what is the lift in the front (with this kit)? Since I'd be looking to clear 35's (eventually), I'll probably(ultimately) need about 6" of lift.

Any help and suggestions is greatly appreciated. I want to have a better idea of what costs I may not be considering.

you'll need to regear the D44 to match the rear; you will have a hard time finding one w/ 4.88s installed already.

you'll need a new rear leaf pack; AAL isn't gonna' do it.

plan on rebuilding the front axle, unless you get one in mint condition. You don't want the whole thing to come together, only to find out after it's all on the truck, that the ball joints are bad, or the gears are chipped, or the axles are worn out, or the hubs are bombed, etc. You can rebuild an axle for relatively cheap; and if you plan ahead of time that you're going to do that, anyways, then you don't have to pay as much for an axle to begin with.

Locker for the D44. Or just weld it. Doesn't matter which. But lock it while you've got its guts splayed out in front of you.

This D44 has been rebuilt with 4.88s.

It has 800 miles on it (according to the seller) since rebuild.

We will open the carrier and verify the ratio and that the (already installed) ARB locker works.

If this axle turns out to be a bust, I won't buy it. But if it does, I still need to know what other issues are present.

Does it have the OE axle shafts in it?

IF it does I would consider putting in the Superior shafts. As you may have heard... I broke an OE shaft in goneMOAB (I do have the Tcase gears though)

If it does have the 4.88 R&P then you can regear your H233B with the Nissan 4.90 OR replace the rear axle with one from an Xterra that already has the 4.90 gears in it.

If it only has 800 miles from the last rebuild I would guess that the seals and ball joints etc are in good shape.

How much are they asking?

Other costs to consider (aside from the basic kit)
Front Driveshaft
Front Coil Overs / Shocks
Rear Spring Pack
Front Sway Bar

Thanks for the info, Carlton.

My rear end is already the 4.90, so if it's the 4.88s, I plan on using it as is.

If the axle is what he says it is, it'll be a steal at $1000.

What are the specs on shock, coils, sway bar and driveshaft that I will need?

How much $$$$?

Right now, I haven't bought anything.

But the SAS seems like a great deal.

Yes it does... welded front diff = extremely hard to steer.

You want a selectable locker in the front so you can just turn it on when you really need it and leave it off the rest of the time so you can turn the damn thing.

$1k without a locker isn't that great a deal, but at least it's geared right assuming you have the 4.90's.

I run stock shafts and 760X ujoints in mine with crawler gears and haven't any trouble with shafts (yet). Not sure what Carlton meant by "wedging it in the crack", but if it's fully wedged, you'll break an aftermarket shaft in that scenario too with the right gearing.

I'd opt for the spring packs in back, or better yet, cut and reweld the perches and go SOA in back.

ARB is already installed!

High steer is not going to work with the kit; you’re going to need original steering knuckles or it maybe possible just to remove the high steer arm depending on how they are tapped/setup?

That and a stock tie rod passenger inner from steering arm to steering arm, and the stock passenger outer connecting rod to the CALMINI adapter

What kind of hubs? Manuals maybe needed if it still has the stock ones?

The arm mounts and optional front sway bar mounts need to be welded on the axle after the stock shock and track bar mounts are removed. IF the axle has been SOA converted you're going to need to cut/grind the stuff on the top off also.

Besides tools [air preferred], a good grinder with a cut-off wheel, and sawzall come in handy.

Overall this is about the easiest kit possible for any SAS I’ve seen and the cost is pretty reasonable all things considered. For some cost estimates see http://www.purenissan.com/solid_axle_swap2.htm the coil-overs/+springs are going to be at least $800 shipped.

For 35’s you’re going to need more such as a 2” body lift or a lot of cutting

The alloy shafts are nice to have for $700+ but the stock ones do the job as well. In my SAS Pathy with the auto locker up front they stock ones have done fine for almost 2year on just about everything from ‘Con to Moab, etc. but I do care spares just in case. Personally I would upgrade the front u-joints before the shafts because I’ve seen lot more problems with those.

SOA in the rear puts you about 2" higher than the front with flat springs unless you get really creative, lower mounts, more customization. Not really worth it to me, those new springs are nice and priced right.

Good luck, once you go SAS you'll will never go back

Brian

toolbox, are you still planning on going with 35's without SOA in rear?

Thanks for all the info!

That being said,, do you think this kit is the optimal way for someone who plans on running 35's?

If the kit was designed for 33's, the Axle is probably 1" behind where it should be for my application.



We'll see.

I may or may not buy this axle.

If I do, it's gonne be time to get SERIOUS.

If not maybe I'll just buy a steering kit for the tim being.....

You can adjust how far forward your axle sits by adjusting the long arms in this kit.

That's also where a body lift comes into play.

So I could probably fit 35's by just adjusting the axle all the way forward with a winch bumper, right?

You may also need to trim the winch bumper for added clearance. I'm running 33" tires that can sometimes rub the bottom corner of my Calmini bumper just enough to polish off the powdercoat.

I've thought about this. If the kit is using the stock steering knuckles, it almost goes without saying that lifting high enough to clear 35's would be an issue, right? Do you know if Calmini has a price list for individual parts so that I can try to come up with a semi-custom setup?

Hopefully I'll check out the axle today; we'll see.....

Steinism… I’m using 15x8 rock crawler rims with 3.75” backspacing on 33x12.15 bias swappers TSL’s right now and they seem to be just about right with the 5.14 gears.

I would like 35’s but I don’t think I would be happy with them as far as MPG, highway driving or in the mountains because of the power loss. I normally travel long distances to wheel my X so that’s a factor for me, I will most likely stick with SUA for the rear and upgrade to 34x12.5/15 Truxs MT’s as my TSL’s are almost worn out and cut or body lift to make them fit.

Jeff….my best advice for the 35’s is a body lift and/or cutting, the kit is pretty specifically designed and I won’t personally try to customize. IMO the suspension lift need for 35’s up front opens up a whole can of worms from shock lengths, coil rates, steering geometry, caster, driveshaft vibes, x member clearance, and so on not to mention stability at speeds on the highway.

You can always fine stock knuckles and get all the tie rods from your local parts store.

Brian

Thanks. The stock knuckles are still there, they just have Hi-steer installed into the tops. If I unbolt the hi-steer, the knuckles will be useful as stock.

FWIW, after some research on the Calmini Kit (and other options), I wanted to tell others what I found out.

I spoke to Steve in detail about the engineering of the kit. As a practicing engineer who also almost finished a BSME, I can appreciate the apparent attention to detail and compromises Calmini has made to make the kit functional both on and off the road. Calmini has "maxed out" the lift without crossing some critical lines. Those wanting to make a higher lift will have some serious extra issues to deal with. VERY custom driveline modifications (Calmini's shaft is already custom), cutting of crossmembers, and additional caster angles are just some of the "more extreme" measures that will be necessary.

The Calmini Kit is definitely a great deal and I'm happy that they offer a turnkey solution by selling the springs, coilovers and driveshaft.

People have been bristling about the cost, but I can't think of any SUV that you can buy with D44 front and rear (H233B is comparable) for about $30K.

Xterra: $25K

D44: $1K

Kit: ~$2K

Coilovers, leafs & DS: ~$2K

Total: $30K!

Add lockers, gears and bigger tires lator.......

Definitely a steal for the vehicle you end up with at the end of the day.

Everybody says "why don't you buy a rubicon?"

First off rubis are a dime a dozen. Secondly, the wheelbase is too short. The guy I bought the D44 had a sick TJ Rock buggy ($$$$$$$$$$$$) which he had lengthened the wheelbase to 106 inches. People are willing to spend great amounts of money to get a longer wheelbase on the jeeps because, once lifted, they are prone to rolling backwards on steep obstacles (at stock length). The Wrangler Unlimited has a longer wheelbase, but doesn't have 4 doors or (IMO) the comfort of the X.

Just wanted to throw my findings out there....

Good luck with your SAS!

I spent some time adding up costs assuming the Dana 44 will have to be completely rebuilt.

Suspension Costs
$1,795 Calmini SAS Kit
$400 Calmini Sway Bar
$400 Calmini Drive Shaft
$425 Calmini Rear Kit
$570 Fox Shocks (2)
$260 Eibach Springs (4)
$3,850

Axle
$700 ARB or Eaton Front Locker
$700 Superior Axle Shafts
$300 Dana 44 Doner
$150 Rotors & hubs
$140 Tie Rod
$135 Dana 44 R&P
$117 HD Diff Cover
$100 R&P install kit (bearings, shims, etc)
$90 Ball joints
$90 Calipers
$75 Warn Hubs
$40 Seals
$16 Brake pads
$2,653

$6,503 Total

Anyone price an axle from Dynatrac?

I got my axle for $900, rebuilt with 4.88s and an ARB!

EDIT:

Also, there's no reason to start out with the $700 shafts. Junkers are about $30 each. If they find they're breaking lots, they can upgrade down the road.....

Yeah, they're about $4K for a D44 and $6K or more for a D60.

Axle

These $2500-$5000 axle options are great, but a decent Dana 44 can be built for under $1000. If you find one that already has the 4.88s, then maybe $500.

Everybody who has broken CV joints and torsion bars, or had to replace LCA's knows that these parts wear out and periodically have to be replaced. They ain't cheap, either.

Dana 44s, on the other hand are all over in boneyards all over America. My buddy who is SASed picks up spare axles (shafts) every time he's at the junkyard for $30 each. Every piece of my axle can be bought at the auto parts store for cheap. This alone will save $$$.

As far as I can tell, an SAS (when/if completed) will cost me $5K, including the front locker. Sounds like a steal when compared with all the upkeep associated with IFS......

You got an awesome deal on your axle. I doubt many people have recently rebuilt Wagoneer axles with lockers laying around waiting for a Nissan owner to buy. For many of us it's going to be a worn out 20 year old junk yard axle with nothing useable but the housing and hopefully knuckles. Stock gearing was 2.73 or 3.31 with a very few 4.10's. All 4.88 gearing has been done aftermarket on the Wagoneer axles.

On the shafts, pick your poison. Beef up the parts or risk breakage someplace very inconvenient. We shouldn't be able to break the Superior axles on 33's with our power.

Just a thought here for those looking for axles...

Out here in SoCal, 98 percent of all four wheel drives never see dirt, much less any type of adverse conditions. Even though the Waggys are full-time 4 wheel drive (so I think, someone correct me if i'm wrong), an axle from a truck out here probably would have little to no wear on it compared to one from a region where 4 wheel drive is used all of the time.

Maybe wrecking yards out here might offer better SAS candidates than other places for that reason and using a primo axle to begin with may help cut costs.

Awsome what i was looking for

dont forget ship and handle,
what about locking the rear? and air tank or compressor?

I left shipping, tax and installation costs out since they may vary quite a bit depending on location. I already have an ARB in the rear with a powertank, so those costs would not apply. But, I am considering re-gearing the rear with either a junk yard "3rd member" from a 2002+ with 4.9 gears or off the shelf 5.13 gears.

Edit: I also have $2600 in parts that would be coming off for this that I should be able to resell for at least 50% what I paid: UCA's, torsion bars, steering kit, rear leaf packs, skid plates, shocks, front LSD, misc spare parts, half-shafts, etc.

They don't. It took two months of browsing the local 4x4 forums to find em.

you have a pm