Greetings XOC members. I am now a proud supporter of this site and resource.

I am offering modified centerlinks for all Nissan trucks. Kits include a centerlink which has been modified with new machined sleeves and press fit teflon lined spherical bearings designed to operate under tens of thousands of pounds of force. Kits also include all necessary hardware. You will need to drill out your pitman arm and idler arm holes to 5/8".

Ordering instructions:

I charge $225 with a $100 core fee. You can send in your stock CL and not have to deal with the core fee. If you pay the core fee you have 45 days to return the core to receive a refund.

Shipping to the lower 48 is free.

I accept paypal to the following address: rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com Please include an extra 3% if you use paypal to cover their seller fees.

I also accept check or MO. I will wait for the check to clear before sending the link.

I don't offer multiple "stages" of kits. I have never seen evidence that this is necessary. In fact, everything I have seen and experiences points to the TREs being the weak point. The TREs will act as a fuse and will break/bend WAY before you run into the kind of forces that require double sheer pitmans and idlers. I DO, however, recommend a simple idler arm brace if you plan to wheel or otherwise abuse your truck. I don't make idler arm braces.

I offer Hardbody, Pathfinder, Xterra and Frontier CLs. Give me a hollar at rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com if you are interested.

My centerlinks come shipped with all necessary hardware, including two grade 8 bolts drilled for cotter pins, two snazzy castle nuts, four washers, and two cotter pins. All hardware is heavy duty nickel or zinc plated stuff.

Installation instructions:
Remove your old centerlink
Step 1: Remove the four cotter pins securing the four 19mm castle nuts.
Step 2: Using a 19mm socket remove the four castle nuts.
Step 3: Use either a BFH or a tie rod end puller to pop loose the four ball joint studs. At this point the centerlink should be loose from both the idler arm and the pitman arm, and both tie rod ends should be out of the centerlink.
Step 4: Once the centerlink is removed please toss it back in the box, tape it up, and ship it back to me so I can make one for the next guy!
Drill the Idler and Pitman
Step 1: Decide how you want to proceed. You have a few options. You can either do it yourself or have it drilled at a machine shop for a case of beer or send it to me and I'll drill it out and ship it back to you for free.
Step 2: If you decide to do it yourself you can drill the idler and pitman arm holes using a hand drill with the arms still on the vehicle (not recommended), or you can pull them off and do it in a drill press or a vise (I recommend doing this). 5/8" drill bits are available from hardware stores and big box retailers like Northern Tool or Tractor Supply. You are enlarging the stock tapered hole to 5/8" to receive the new grade 8 bolts. This is a much more difficult task than drilling thinner steel with a smaller bit. With bits larger than 1/2" you really have to turn the bit slowly or you will overheat it and ruin it in no time. It's really best to pull off the arms and drill them out using a drill press at low RPM. If you just run the 5/8" bit through using a standard single speed 1/2" hand drill at full speed you WILL burn up your bit before you can drill both holes. If you aren't comfortable doing this then plan on pulling the arms and taking them to the local machine shop or mechanic.
Install the new centerlink
Step 1: If you removed the pitman and idler arms, replace them now.
Step 2: Place the new centerlink ends above the idler and pitman arms and drop both bolts down through one washer each and through the centerlink end and the idler and pitman holes.
Step 3: Slide the remaining two washers over the bolts and tighten the castle nuts. You will need to torque these castle nuts down to 100 ft. lbs.
Step 4: IMPORTANT insert the cotter pins through the castle nut slots and through the 1/8" hole which is predrilled through the bolt, and then bend the long part of the cotter pin back over the end of the bolt, to ensure that the centerlink bolts cannot loosen.
Step 5: Insert the tie rod ends into the centerlink through the bottom, torque them down, and replace their cotter pins. If the taper is reversed and they will not insert from the bottom, flip the centerlink over.
Congratulations, you are finished. Take the vehicle in for an alignment and enjoy!

Please email me with any questions!

Here's a couple pics of the hardware that comes with my kits and a couple weld shots:

So, when are you going to crank out a few Idler Arm Braces, and maybe get some cores for pitman arms and so forth to address the drilling thing?



Your stuff looks awsome btw.

drilling is a cinch. I have had mine on for a while now no trouble.

The after market Idler Arm Braces out there only work o the stock set up according to their claims...this is obviously not stock...so, there may be no readily available Idler Arm Brace to add to the system.

Hence my question.

That's not true, though. Calmini and AC's will work with an aftermarket steering such as this. I can't confirm/deny SLR's, though, as I haven't seen one of those in person.

But there's no difference at the connection of the idler arm to the frame with this setup, so there's no good reason it wouldn't.

That's good, one more thing for AC to edit on their site to correct their claims/advertisements/product descriptions.



--------------------------------------------

Idler Arm Brace

This helps to decrease problems with steering alignment by reinforcing the idler arm which is a common weak point on all Nissan Trucks and SUVs. Although common to all stock vehicles, this is a more common problem on lifted vehicles with larger tires. This brace is used to reinforce the stock idler arm and will not work with after-markeet idler arm . Bolt-on design. No drilling or welding required. Original design, proven on thousands of Nissans worldwide!
Price - $29.95

No, they're right. The idler arm braces WON'T work with aftermarket idler arms.

But what hoohaa is selling is an aftermarket centerlink, not an aftermarket idler arm...

Guess you missed that part. That's your 1 mistake for the month allowance.

Thanks. And about the pitman and idler cores... That's been my plan for a while, I just need to find enough cores to get started. Anyone have some they're not using? I'll buy 'em.

You are right, this would make it much easier to install for the average guy without a decently equipped shop. Sorry for slacking on that! :p

I could do idler arm braces too, but I need enough idler arms to figure out the differences and facilitate building the proper jigs.

I know some people who might be able to help you out on that...let me check and get back to you.

Pitman arms and Idler Arm Cores....on the to do list.

I have one of HooHaas center links I am running a calmini bracce with no problems at all this center link is bullet proof great product is all I can say.

I just got my HooHaa steering delivered yesterday... VERY nice! I will be installing tomorrow (pending weather). And I'll take pictures of the install if anyone wants them. We'll be installing on a Frontier and my Xterra.

Packaging was great, by the way. I imagine it's pretty tough to ship these without them breaking through standard packaging. They were shipped in a very sturdy cardboard tube, which arrived 100% intact.

any word on the idler and pitman cores?

Got the centerlink installed today. Very easy, and it looks and feels great. We did my X, and my friend's Frontier...

My truck took about an hour to do.

Here's the pics: http://s217.photobucket.com/albums/cc123/Anthony-n-Kim/Steering%20Install/

I am closer to offering this service. Pretty much as soon as I find D22 and D21 pitman arms I can begin. This will make it a nice totally bolt on mod.

If anyone has extra idler arms or pitman arms please contact me!

how much more will it cost with the arms. that'll be sweet to bolt on an be done

I will have to think about that. I feel that the problem will definitely be that I just won't have enough pitmans and idlers to keep up with the demand for a while.

The AC idler arm brace workes with the SLR steering - FYI. I would assume the Calmini one does too.

The Calmimi Idler arm brace will work with this set up no problem I am using one

yup, same here.

Yup, me Too....So Far, So Good Bryan....

It doesn't work with the SLR replacement idler arm shaft. I used to have both on my rig before cutting all that shiite off. That was what I was referring to when I mentioned "aftermarket idler arm". I guess I should have been more specific. My bad.

So what else would be reccomended when upgrading with this centerlink. I will be using the Calmini brace. anything else to upgrade while im at it, steering wise?

Perhaps go to Napa and get some Tie rod adjusters. Theirs are thicker then the OEM ones.

When I installed mine, I also installed a set of the SLR 4130 tie rod adjustters and a brand new set of inner and outer tie rod ends. I also have the Cal. idler arm brace.

So you guys wouldn't suggest the Calmini adjusters/ends?

For the adjustors any of em will work fine.

SLR, Calmini, NAPA

Just comes down to what you want to spend.

SLR & Calmini have the HD ones.

For the love of all things holy will people who have cores please ship them back.. I need to get my Centerlink and Bryan is out of cores.

I shipped 2 of them back right after my install.

i tried to get one to but he was out. so i ordered one from l&p.i ordered it sunday,it shipped today and i'll get it wednesday.plus they droped their prices.

Anthony I have not seen your cores yet.

Sorry bout that. Josh just called me yesterday to say the address label got torn, so it got returned to him as "not deliverable as addressed". I believe he sent it back out AGAIN on Saturday, so you should have it sometime either this week or the following.

It's fine, it would not be a big deal right now, but out of the last eight centerlinks I've shipped, I've received only one core back. It's been well over a month on some of these.

I've ordered new materials so I can take orders now.

After fixing and helping fix more than one of L&P's mistakes, I no longer recommend buying from them. I supported them and even sent customers their way in the past, but no more. Sooner or later there will be a tragedy when one of their cold welds fail on the highway for someone.

Well after a couple of wheeling trips, and hundreds of highway miles on my new steering, I can definitely say this is money well spent!! If there is a wait to get these, it would be worth the wait.

Thanks Bryan!!!

i would have rather gotten one of yours,but i didn't have time to wait.i deffently think your welds are alot stronger.

anyone have install pictures? and also will this work with the total chaos suspension setup?

The TC suspension system should work perfectly with this system.

Can you explain what the difference is between this centerlink and a stock one? I am having trouble understanding the difference, especially since they look pretty similar in the pictures. I have a used calmini steering system in the garage but I think I would rather just get this and new tie rod adjusters because I dont want to worry about the bushings on the calmini kit.

Edit: I also always wondered, what on the stock centerlinks is failing on lifted Xterras.

The part that is replaced is that part that fails on the lifted Xterras. It's those Balljoints on the Centerlinks that fail. You can see the balljoint in the stock centerlink in the first pic. Pics that follow courtesy of Anthony, I just cropped them a bit.
Stock centerlink installed, idler arm side:

Hoohaa centerlink installed, idler arm side:


Notice the Inner tie rod end also sits lower on the HooHaa centerlink than in the stock centerlink. That helps to restore the stock steering geometry.

HooHaa, I sent you an email a number of days ago asking about the centerlink but haven't gotten a reply so I will post here. If I ordered one today, how long until it would ship out? Are you sending the idler and pittman arms out with the centerlinks yet?

Does anyone know the p/n for the Napa tie rods? The ones the showed for the xterra don't look any better than stock.

Thanks,
Chris

You can get Moogs at a Carquest...lifetime warranty as well. Or at Carquest online.

I believe Bryan is out of the country until sometime in April

That's the word on the street.

He is in Sudan right now
Tie Rod End - Inner
NCP
2693166

Tie Rod End - Outer
NCP
2693167

Sudan is a long way from home. Thanks for the heads up! I was wondering why I didnt get a reply. Also, thanks for the p/n's!

So when does he return so the rest of us can get his HooHaa centerlinks? Anyone know?

I'm back in the country for a long while now. Thanks for the patience you have all had with me as I have been away. I'm taking orders now and filling them as fast as I can.

You might have noticed a new banner ad on this site for grassroots4x4.com. Grassroots 4x4 LLC is my new company and I am doing all my business as Grassroots 4x4 from here on out. Unfortunately while I was away grassroots4x4.com was hacked so I had the webhost take the site down. I am trying to juggle getting the site back up with getting orders filled and shipped and also catching up on everything else that has piled up over the last 6 weeks.

So again, thanks for your patience and please let me know if you have sent me a pm or an email but have not heard back from me. My new email address is grassroots4x4@gmail.com, so please direct all new inquiries to that address. I lost lots of mail when the site was hacked, so I might have lost your message before even seeing it.

Where did we end up with this? Was it killed by a part shortage?
Thanks.

Anyone heard from Hoohaa lately? I sent him an email last week.

S.

He's back. I placed my order last week, and it's being shipped this week. I PM'd him, at it was off to the races from there.

SCChavez, I sent an email reply to your pm.

The best way to get a hold of me is through email at grassroots4x4@gmail.com.

I just emailed you back.

I did send my first email to you to that address last week; no response.

S.

Has anyone had difficulties getting the pitman arm off? I've tried a wheel puller, but I cannot get it to budge.
Thanks.

Get a pitman puller, while cranking the puller hit the side of the pitman with a hammer. Soaking the splines for a day or two with PB Blaster sometimes helps. Should loosen.

Thanks. I'll keep at it. I figured the X was getting back at me for all the dunking and mud crossings...

I am a douche bag spammer